CARDIFF BAY
Waterfront dining at Tempus at Tides

The minute you walk through the door of a five star hotel the experience should be about seamless service. So, I was excited to be dining with friends at Tempus at Tides restaurant in St David's Hotel and Spa in Cardiff Bay.

Cocktails at the Tempus Bar beckoned and it was surprising to find that the bar area has lost the minimalisitc edge that it was previously known for, in favour of a friendlier American club styled environment with dark wood, warm tones and cosier banquette seating. The new theme continues into the restaurant and it was reassuring that the views of the Bay and the outline of twinkling lights along the shoreline have lost none of their former magic.

It's the little details and nice touches that you expect in a hotel of note and it's hard to separate the restaurant from the hotel's five star status; so when my clumsy entrance into the restaurant sent my cutlery clattering to the floor, within seconds it was scooped up and replaced with clean sparkling new ones - a tick in the box for attentive service.

Menus were perused and choices made, then we relaxed while being served with three varieties of delicious home-baked bread, a bottle of Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a glass of smooth oaked St Hallett Faith Shiraz.

Friend One's choice of pan-fried wood pigeon supreme with sweetcorn puree, Madeira caramel and bacon popcorn assembled upon a warmed Welsh slate plate, gave it a patriotic touch. The pigeon was beautifully tender with a balance of flavours and textures from the saltiness and crunch of the popcorn. Friend Two chose the delicate St David's crayfish salad, lemon dressing and ground scallop roe and we all went quiet while she disassembled it with great care before tasting.

It was a light and refreshing starter with well combined flavours, leaving her with room to enjoy the main course. For me, the Welsh goats cheese baked in dukkah which is a Middle Eastern nut and spice mixture and served with tomato confit was mild and creamy with the black olive puree adding decoration and 'lift' to the milder flavours of the rest of the dish.

Next, the Assiette of Welsh lamb with flageolet bean, rosemary puree and port sauce was devoured before remarks were made on its perfect tenderness and an endorsement that it would leave no doubt in any mind that it was Welsh lamb. Friend Two's fish theme continued with perfectly cooked Monkfish marinated in ginger, chilli and coriander root, steamed in seaweed, with stir fried vegetables and mild green Thai curry sauce.

Yours truly enjoyed the comforting option of corn-fed chicken supreme stuffed with ricotta, pancetta and served with crushed baby potatoes, leeks and mustard sauce; it looked and tasted substantial and I was delighted by what I detected as French (not Dijon) mustard sauce and cheekily asked for an extra jug of it. Seasonal vegetables were presented in small copper handled pans and cooked to perfection.

Dessert was a scrumptious mix and match affair so that we could all share a taste - glazed choc au pain and apricot bread and butter pudding with vanilla bean custard; home-made Welshcake ice-cream and a selection of mini chocolate treats which change on a daily basis. Unbelievably, we managed to find room for a selection of Welsh and continental cheeses from the cheese trolley, which in itself was a marvellous showpiece.

All in all, I must say we enjoyed a fabulous evening. In general, the presentation and portion size was just right and the food was excellent. The restaurant is comfortable, more mainstream, and offers a relaxed, non-intimidating service.

Expect seamless unobtrusive service - the type you hardly notice, yet at the same time knowing that when you need to catch someone's eye, they will be there in a jiffy.

Tempus at Tides Bar and Restaurant
St. David’s Hotel and Spa
Havannah Street
Cardiff Bay CF10 5SD
029 2045 4045
www.thestdavidshotel.com
 
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